Good Time Eatin' in Cajun Country: Cajun Vegetarian Cooking

When I hear the word "Cajun," only a few things come to mind. One is dancing, and I can't say I've mastered the art of this bouncy dance form that involves a lot of shoulder dipping. The others are scant recollections from my two trips to New Orleans as a youngster - once as a fussy carnivorous child, the other as an even fussier vegetarian.

So when I got a chance to review this new cookbook, I was thrilled. Here was a chance to learn some new recipes, and also about a heretofore unfamiliar cuisine that is rich in history as well as oil. Author Donna Simon has kept the traditional flavors of Cajun cooking, but she's eliminated a lot of the fat and all of the fish and other animal products one might otherwise typically find.

As she puts it, "A great deal of the true flavor and aroma of Cajun cooking is conveyed by the spices and combination of ingredients." So you'll find cayenne pepper, paprika, turmeric, file', chili powder, thyme and garlic sprinkled throughout most of the recipes. Classic Cajun favorites have been reborn as File' Gumbo, Etoufee, Boulettes, Red Beans and Rice, Blackened Tofu, and more.

Need a translation?

File' Gumbo is an okra-based soup built on a very dark roux. A roux? That's a mix of browned flour and oil, the basis of Cajun and Creole cooking. And file', that's a spice made from young dried sassafras leaves, sometimes with added thyme.

Etoufee is a mix of steamed broccoli and cauliflower, onion, pepper and celery, cooked up in a roux, tossed with grated soy cheese and served over brown rice.

Boulettes are meatless balls fashioned from potatoes, broccoli, cauliflower, chick-pea flour and salt, that are fried or baked. Serve them with brown gravy over spaghetti or as an appetizer.

Red beans and rice can be found in eateries ranging from the greasiest of spoons to the finest Southern establishments, but ths recipe is notable for its absence of ham hocks and cray fish.

Blackened Tofu is a variation on blackened fish, using fried tofu as the medium for the traditional spices instead of underwater creatures.

There are 90+ recipes you can try if you want to savor the scents and seasonings of the bayou country of New Orleans, with influences from Spain, Africa, the Caribbean and Native Americans.

Haven't you been yearning for some Jambalaya, Creole Court bouillion, a PoBoys or some Pan Perdue? I know I am, now that I've had a chance to wander through the pages of this new cookbook. I'll still need a few more lessons before I'll be proficient on the dance floor, but this cookbook will set me off on the right foot for cooking up some great authentic Cajun meals.

-Reviewed by Jennie O. Collura